A space to eat in Paris with a motto: come hungry | ET REALITY


On a hot summer Monday in Paris’s 11th arrondissement, chef Rose Chalalai Singh, 43, is unloading a suitcase of kitchen equipment into her new private dining room, Rose Kitchen. The kitchen is still in the final stages of remodeling but, Singh says, “I can cook anywhere as long as there’s water and gas.”

That attitude has served him well on his unconventional path through the culinary world. After moving to Paris from her native Bangkok in 2009, she opened a small Thai grocery store called Ya Lamaï in the Marais. At first, the store only offered a few takeout options, but her customers wanted more, plus a place to sit. Over time, Ya Lamaï moved to a larger space and became a full-scale restaurant, with Singh, who had never worked in a professional kitchen, as head chef. In 2017, he stepped down to focus on his catering company (Hermès and several Paris galleries are clients). Four years later, when a spot became available at the historic Marché des Enfants Rouges covered market, she opened a home-style Thai café (also called Rose Kitchen) that quickly became a favorite of the art and fashion crowd. . But Singh ran into trouble with the non-stop schedule and closed the place after 18 months. “Restaurants are not my thing anymore because I love to travel,” he says.

In his new space, on a vine-covered cobblestone street on a quiet block, he will focus on invitation-only events, allowing him plenty of time to research and travel to places like Mallorca, where he found the painted pottery he’s arranged today. on the long community table with capacity for 30 people. Diners will have views of the open kitchen and shelves of cookware and ingredients, some for sale, such as olive oil, homemade jams and colorful Japanese tablecloths. Upstairs there is a tatami room for tea ceremonies, where Singh will receive tea masters coming from Japan.

While Singh’s food has always had Thai roots, she incorporates influences from her various travels: papaya salad can come with lemongrass and bay-stuffed guinea fowl and her hybrid dumpling ravioli. He or she will collaborate with her catering partner, chef Petra Lindbergh, on a South Indian curry with shrimp, coconut milk and tamarind. However, no matter what’s on the menu, “I don’t doubt myself,” she says. “I’m just doing my job.” Her only request is that the guests come hungry. “We never turned it into a party,” she says. “This is a place to eat.” — jose lauren

Photography assistant: Elie Delpit

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